The Canal des Ardennes was designed during the French revolutionary period 1793-1801, as a strategic connection between two rivers, the Meuse and the Aisne. The build did not start until 1823, and was eventually opened in 1831. Today it carries little commercial traffic and is mainly used a a through fare by private boat owners (yes, that’s us!) It rises from the harbour at Pont à Bar which is at the junction of the Meuse, through a tunnel to the summit level at Le Chesne, then slips down a flight of 27 locks with another 9 thrown in for good measure to join the Canal Laterial a l’Aisne at Asfeld.

Unfortunately, due to the lack of traffic on the canal the infrastructure is in poor repair and passage is continually held up due to locks that refuse to comply with our request to transit. The answer, get on the phone to the local VNF office to call an eclusier to come to our rescue. Sounds easy, yes it would be if they all spoke at least a little English. Anyway, we finally manage to communicate our message. After leaving the Meuse at Pont a Bar we required assistance at the first 4 locks!

Frustrated with our lack of progress on day one on the canal, before tackling the flight of 27, we contacted the VNF office and requested that an eclusier came alone with us the following day. This proved to be a good call, the flight of 27 plus 1 was completed in 7 hours!

Despite the challenges of poorly maintained locks, the canal snakes its way through some postcard like rural scenery.

Leaving the flight of 27 locks in our wake, our next stop was the canal side village of Chateau Porciens. Encircled by limestone cliffs the town is noted for its 16th church and the imposing brick building, Chateau de Wignacourt. Built in 1479 it owes its preservation to the fact it was built within the town walls. Today it has been transformed into housing. Sorry, but I couldn’t find anymore about its past history.

The weed in the canal was not as ferocious as last year (thank heavens!) We meet the local VNF operating weed cutters and collectors in what seems like an endless task of clearing a navigable passage. Their effort reminds me a little of the legend of Prometheus, who suffered the endless cycle of having his liver eaten each day by an eagle, only for it to grow back overnight and be eaten again the next day.

The VNF working to keep the canal clear

Nearly at the end of this part journey along the Canal des Ardennes, before we turned off onto the Canal L’Aisne a la Marne our last mooring was at the rural village, Variscourt. Not much to report here, just horses and flowers. And beware this is mosquito city!

The turn off to the Canal L’Aisne a la Marne (or if you prefer the English translation, the Canal from the Aisne to the Marne) is at Berry au Bac, and true to form the lock was not cooperating. Despite numerous calls to the VNF head office and at times an appearance of an eclusier our forward journey was delayed by over 3 hours. Sometimes you have to be have the patience of Job!

A commercial coming alongside Mimosa at Berry au Bac. Need nerves of steel for that one!

Now navigating the canal that will finally take onto the Marne, I’ll leave you with an image of our first family of swans for the season