The Ijssel is a distributary of the Rhine that flows in a northerly direction eventually discharging into the IJsselmeer. We had travelled on this river in 2022, but at that time we motored against the flow, upstream in a north south direction. There was a drought and the river was low with not much traffic. However we only achieved 6-8kms against the flow. Yes, we had at last realised the error of our ways, and this year cruised in a northerly direction, with the flow of the river.

The towns along the Ijssel were members of the Hanseatic League, a medieval commercial and defensive network of merchant guilds and market towns in Northern and Central Europe.

First stop, Doesburg a pretty medieval town with winding streets and historic houses. The Matinkerk has a history dating back to 1228 and today houses a silver museum.

The next town on our itinerary was Zutphen. When we passed in 2022 the town harbour was closed due to lack of water. We were forced into a mooring outside the town and rode our bikes in for a quick visit. This year there was water in the town harbour so we had a lot more opportunities to explore. After Doesburg, a lovely but small town we described Zutphen as Doesburg on steroids.

The spire of the 11th century Walburgiskerk dominates the city skyline and this was our first stop on our tour of the city. Built in the 11th century and then reconstructed in the 13th century this church is home to the 16th century chained library. This unique 16th century public library was established by the canons of the church. Fearing the growth of the Reformation it was thought that if people read ‘good’ books they would repent their ways and retain their original (Roman Catholic ) faith. History tells us that this plan didn’t work, but it’s certainly better than the alternative of burning books. The library retains its original chained layout with room for about 300 books.

The church contains an unusual 14th century chandelier and a beautiful painted ceiling

So much to see in Zutphen! The entry to the museum is through a shell grotto that was a gift from the King of Sweden. There is a spectacular gate, hidden gardens, bronze statues and great views around every corner.

20kms down the river was our next stop, the Hanseatic town of Deventer. Now everyone knows that Peter likes to moor up close to the action, but unfortunately the only mooring in Deventer is outside the city and requires a bus ride into town. But I can’t complain about the port, a lake off the Ijssel with lovely views and a very good bistro, where we enjoyed dinner.

Despite the threat of rain we ventured into the city. First stop the tourist information for a walking guide in English

With our day trip to Deventer complete we scuttled back to our Joie de Vivre just before the heavens opened up. Oh well at least the boat was washed!

The smallest Hanseatic town along the Ijssel is Hattem. Although it was only 10kms from Zwolle, where we had arranged to pick up Peter’s grand daughter, Olivia, we decided to stay the night and tick another town of our list ‘of where to go’.

So what can I say about this small town. Well there was a market, so we enjoyed kibling for lunch (small pieces of battered deep fried fish). This is a tasty Dutch delicacy. And of course a church, town hall, beautiful gardens and an impressive gate. In the 15th century the Duke of Guilders built a castle here, but all that remains are some if its thick brick walls, as it was dismantled in the 18th century in order to use the bricks for houses. Last but not least a working windmill. Everything that points to Hattem being a traditional Dutch town.

We had planned our next stop as Zwolle, but when we arrived at the lock that would take us into town, it was closed for the next few days. What can I say. The navigator didn’t check the details of our route. So it was a quick rethink and calls to Olivia to change our destination to Kampen, where we would pick her up. Thanks heavens for 21st century technology! Our only problem was we had to hang around outside the harbour until after 4pm, as there was an event to welcome home the Kampen Cog, that was returning from an adventure in Sweden.

We were on the last leg of the Ijssel before it flowed into the Ketelmeer and out to the IJsselmeer. We would not be taking that direction. Rather we would head north on the Ganzeendeip to the Zwarte Meer