Historical Treasures Along Moselle River: Trier, Luxembourg City, and Fortifications

At this stage I have added a map so you have a visual understanding where we are. Leaving France we continued on the Moselle (the Musel in Luxembourg and the Mosel in Germany) and crossed the border into Luxembourg/Germany. The river is the demarcation line between Luxembourg and Germany. As we travel North down the river, we have Luxembourg on the left bank and Germany on the right

Day 1 Sierck las Bains to Schwebsange 1 lock 6 kms

This was just a pit stop to restock the larder and the fuel tank. We had paid the discounted price of 2 euros a litre for diesel in Strasbourg, but the price at this port in Luxembourg was 1.47 euros. A considerable saving!

Just before the mooring at Schwebsange is the town of Schengen. Now I’m sure you have heard of Schengen in relation to the 3 month visa to visit Europe. Prior to 1985 the countries in Europe had controlled borders, that was until 5 of the 10 member states of the European Economic Community met in the town of Schengen and signed an agreement to gradually abolish border checks. Today the Schengen agreement covers 29 countries with a total population over 400 million people.

Time to change our courtesy flag

Now as you are probably aware (or not) a nation’s courtesy flag should be flown when entering a nation’s territorial waters. As the Moselle delineates the border between Luxembourg and Germany we were in a bit of a quandary as to which flag we should fly, but as we were staying in harbours on the Luxembourg side of the river we opted for the Luxembourg courtesy flag. But did you know that Luxembourg has the choice of 2 flags

Flag 1

This is the official national flag of Luxembourg, but as it is very similar to the flag of the Netherlands (the bottom blue strip on the flag is a royal blue in the Netherlands and an aqua blue in Luxembourg), there has been much debate over whether to change it.

Flag 2

Based on the coat of arms for Luxembourg the red lion is the offical ensign for ships registered in Luxembourg. It is also accepted a a civic flag. We decide to invest in a red lion flag. After we are a ship and it is a very pretty flag!

Day 2 Schwebsanger to Konz 2 locks, 38 kms

Some of the towns along the Luxembourg side of the river offer free electricity at their docks. They are available to pleasure boats like us, as long as there are no bookings for hotel boats. Although they were all empty, the power had been disconnected for the week we were there, so we decide to race onto Germany and the harbour at Konz.

And we were in wine country. Although Germany lays claim to Moselle wines, we encountered our first vineyards in Luxembourg.

2 Days in Konz visiting Trier and Luxembourg

It was only a 9 minute train ride to the Roman town of Trier, and if you do get a chance this is a must visit. Walking from the station our first port of call was Port Nigra, the Roman city gate, which is the most recognised monument of the city.

Built of massive sandstone blocks it is the largest surviving Roman gate in the world. This longevity is probably due to the fact that it was converted into a church in the Middle Ages and was home to a Greek hermit who was later recognised as a saint.

The next Roman monument to visit are the Imperial Baths, built at the beginning of the 4th century, when Trier became an imperial city. They were never completed due to the political focus moving to the east, under Constantine I. In the Middle Ages the site was expanded into a defensive castle. It was only after the destruction of WW2 that the site was excavated and the remains of the baths discovered.

Aside from the Roman ruins several cathedrals within Trier are listed as UNESCO World heritage sites

Although large sections of Roman brick work can be seen this cathedral was destroyed by the Franks and rebuilt, only to be destroyed again by the Vikings. Throughout the centuries the cathedral continued to be rebuilt and embellished according to the then fashion.

The most important relic of the cathedral in Trier is the Holy Robe. Reported to be the seamless robe that Christ wore to the cross is was bought to Trier in the 11th century and has been a pilgrims destination ever since. Today it is locked behind an iron gate in a coffin.

The protestant basilica is housed today in the largest surviving single Roman room that was built around 310. The image on the right is an artists impression of what was then the imperial throne room with its colour marble inlay floor.

So much to see in Trier

The next day we again embarked on the train to Luxembourg city, only 40 minutes away. Yes the capital of Luxembourg is Luxembourg. Perched high on cliffs that drop into the narrow valleys of the Alzette and Petrusse rivers the city has a complex layout set on several levels, with many bridges and viaducts that straddle the gorges. Because of this unique geographic location the city has been a place of important military significance from the times of the Romans.

The most impressive structure in the city are the historic remains of the Bock Casemates.

What does the term Casemate mean?

Derived from the Greek word meaning chasm a casemate is a bomb proof vaulted room intended to accomodate troops and equipment.

Built in the 17th century by the Spanish, enlarged by the French military engineer Vauban and then later by the Austrians today they provide tourists with stunning views of the city. That’s of course if you don’t get lost in the maze of tunnels.

After 2 days of marching through the local tourist towns we were back on the river, with Jo Atkinson in tow to explore more delights of the Moselle. But first it was a quick diversion up the Saar to Saarburg.