Leaving Strasbourg on the 7th July we turned around to head back westward.

Day 1 Strasbourg to Waltersheim sur Zorn 8 locks, 1 lifting bridge, 24 kms

A symbol of Alsace is the white stork. On the way to Strasbourg we had noticed them forging in the swampy fields along the canal, but in coming to Waltersheim it was spot the stork nests that were either carefully balanced on roof tops or in specially constructed metal baskets.

This association with storks dates back to a folktale of 817. Emperor Louis the Pious wanted to divide his land holdings between 3 sons but his 2nd wife convinced him to leave his inheritance to only one son. This resulted in war between father and his other 2 sons. In grief at the resulting devastation the storks dipped their legs and beaks in the free flowing blood, coloured the tips of their wings in black and became mute in mourning. The storks have remained silent ever since and only communicate by clacking their beaks.

And there is a very good restaurant in Waltersheim sur Zorn, but make sure you take your google translate with you as no one speaks English and there is horse and offal on the menu!

Day 2 Waltersheim sur Zorn to Saverne 12 locks, 22 kms

We had planned a 4 day stop in Saverne, 1 to arrive, 2 to share the sites with Helen and finally 1 to assist Helen in her trip to Frankfurt to fly back to Australia. But then we considered the dates and if we added another few days we would be in Saverne for the fireworks display on the eve of Bastille Day. Decision made we settled in!

Situated on a high rocky outcrop above Saverne is the Chateau de Haut Barr. This medieval castle, built in 1100 is only a pale shadow of its former glorious self but the views from the top easily explain why it is referred to as the “Eye of Alsace”. It was last used in WW2 by the German Army as a strategic viewing point from where they keep track of the liberating allied troops. The 1 1/2 hour walk up the hill is not for the faint hearted but 4 brave souls and 1 energetic dog hiked up the almost 500 meter incline to sample the sights and lunch at the cafe at the top.

We usually welcome guests aboard Joie de Vivre in July/August so it was goodbye to Helen Ward and hello to Sue Cassidy, who arrived just in time to enjoy the Bastille Eve fireworks.

Day 6 Saverne to Lutzelbourg 9 locks 10kms

Yes we have been here before and given it was Bastille Day there was very little activity in the town. Our favourite cafe was closed. Instead it was a few refreshing beverages at the local supermarket come bar.

Day 7 Lutzelbourg to Hesse 6 locks, 1 incline plane, 2 tunnels 18kms

We had a lunchtime stop at the Arzvillers Incline plane. We had hoped to investigate the flight of 17 locks with their adjacent lock houses but the path that google maps directed me to was overgrown with blackberries and nettles. Instead we satisfied ourselves with an investigation of the barge museum.

The Engineering Miracle of the Arzviller Incline Plane

Now we were back on the summit level with a lockless 33kms stretching before us. An overnight stop at the hire boat port at Hesse gave Sue and me an opportunity to visit the ruins of the 10th century Benedictine Abbey, that today has been reinvigorated as the village church. This sympathetic renovation makes use of some of the aspects of the original abbey structure to achieve a functioning building.

As for Hesse itself, there is not much there though we did find a baguette vending machine.

The next day we said goodbye to the Canal de la Marne au Rhin and turned onto the Canal de la Sarre.